How To Soundproof Podcasting Room

Podcasting is a popular and creative way to share your voice and ideas with the world. But if you want to produce high-quality audio, you need to make sure your recording environment is free of unwanted noise and echo. How can you achieve that without spending a fortune on professional soundproofing materials?

The answer is simple: you can soundproof your podcasting room with some easy and affordable DIY solutions. Soundproofing your podcasting room will improve your audio quality, reduce background noise, and enhance your listeners’ experience. You don’t need to be an expert or have a lot of tools to do it. All you need are some basic materials, some time, and some creativity.

In this article, we will show you how to soundproof your podcasting room with four simple steps: choosing the right location, covering the walls and windows, adding acoustic panels and foam, and sealing the gaps and cracks. By following these steps, you will be able to create a quiet and comfortable space for your podcasting sessions.

Sure, here is an expanded version of the blog post with more details:

How To Soundproof A Podcasting Room

Creating an ideal recording environment is critical for podcasters. Outside noise creeping into tracks is a surefire way to ruin quality and professionalism. Fortunately, effectively soundproofing a room is achievable even on tight budgets. With some strategic planning and elbow grease, you can construct a podcasting paradise free of distractions.

Identifying Noise Problem Areas

The first step is conducting an acoustic site survey. Walk around the room while potential noise sources like neighbors, TVs, traffic etc. are active. Listen closely and make notes on the loudest spots. Pay special attention to shared walls, ceilings, doors, and windows where outside sound transfers easiest.

You’ll want to focus soundproofing efforts in the most intrusive areas first. But keep the whole space in mind – flanking paths that allow noise to travel around defenses can sabotage your efforts. Comprehensive solutions are key.

Assess noise during regular daily activities. Also try testing worst case scenarios, like setting volume levels to the max or running loud appliances. This will give you a baseline to design your soundproofing plan around.

Soundproofing Materials Toolbox

There are many affordable and readily available materials to effectively block or absorb noise. Combining several layers and techniques is ideal for preventing sound intrusions. Building a robust acoustic barrier doesn’t have to break the bank.

Mass Loaded Vinyl

Mass loaded vinyl (MLV) is a thin, dense vinyl designed to add mass and damping to surfaces. MLV excels at blocking airborne noise transmission with its limp, flexible structure. The material’s stiffness also helps reduce low frequency resonance.

MLV sheets can be installed on walls, ceilings, doors, and under flooring. One or two layers can reduce incoming noise by 10-20 decibels – making it an extremely effective sound blocker. It performs even better when coupled with other isolation techniques.

MLV weighs 1-2 lbs per square foot and is available in rolls with various thicknesses. Basic MLV sheets can be purchased for around $0.50-0.75 per square foot. Products like QuietRock and Soundproof Cow Quiet Barrier include adhesive backings for easier installation.

Green Glue

Green glue is a patented viscoelastic compound designed to maximize noise damping between two rigid surfaces. It converts vibrational sound energy into low level heat energy by shearing between layers.

Green glue is typically applied between drywall sheets and wall studs. When sandwiched correctly, it can provide noise reductions of 14 decibels or more. The damping performance increases with more layers.

Many contractors use green glue combined with MLV sheets to build professional grade sound studios. Together, they make a very formidable acoustic barrier. Green glue also works great for reducing noise transmission through ceilings and floors.

Green glue is applied as a sealant with a standard caulking gun. A 28 oz tube costs around $25-30 on average. A little goes a long way – make sure to apply an even, continuous bead without gaps.

Acoustic Foam Panels

Sound absorption foam panels are commonly used for treating room acoustics and taming reverb. But they can also provide some noise blocking if mounted on walls bordering noise sources.

Absorption panels are made from porous materials that soak up ambient sound rather than reflecting it. 2-4 inch polyurethane or melamine foam works best for maximum absorption.

Foam panels are affixed directly to walls or ceilings with adhesives or screws. Focus placement in corners and by reflective surfaces first, then expand coverage for general room damping. DIY panels made from insulation or recycled materials can further stretch budgets.

Watch mounting thickness – absorption diminishes sharply under 2”. Leave some space between panel edges for performance. Keep cost in mind too – more expensive studio grade panels outperform budget panel brands.

Soundproofing Techniques

Combining isolation materials with specialized techniques is key for preventing noise intrusions. Properly implementing these strategies will take your amateur studio to soundproof pro levels.

Decoupling Walls

Decoupling involves de-linking walls, ceilings, floors, and doors from the main structure to prevent vibration transmission. Anywhere solid materials touch, noise can transfer through – we need to create a floating acoustic break.

For walls, this means isolating drywall from wall studs using resilient channels – specialized metal brackets that act like springs. Drywall is mounted to the channels instead of being screwed right into studs. Channels are installed horizontally 16 inches apart.

Resilient channels combined with two layers of drywall and green glue provide impressive noise reduction. The floating design prevents sound transfer through framework. MLV sheets can also be added for extra density.

Ceiling and floor decoupling is achieved through similar floating techniques using layers and building an independent barrier. Isolate as many surfaces from central structures as possible.

Sealing All Gaps

Another primary path for noise intrusion is through openings in structures – gaps around windows, doors, vents, outlets, pipes etc. Sound leaks through any unfilled space.

Sealing gaps limits the entry points sound can travel through. Methodically seal every crack, hole, opening, and edge with caulk, weather stripping, door sweeps, insulation, spray foam, or other blocking material.

Leave no space untouched – an 1/8 inch gap can render other soundproofing ineffective. Take time filling the perimeter of window and door frames. Electrical outlets flank noise easily through wall voids – seal those outlets!

Adding Solid Doors

Hollow core interior doors leak noise badly due to their lightweight paper structure. Upgrading to a solid core wood or metal door instantly boosts soundproofing. Solid doors weigh 80-120 lbs and completely fill the door frame when closed.

If a full door replacement isn’t possible, just adding a second exterior-grade steel door provides similar weight and sealing benefits. Using dual doors with an air gap between is a common studio technique. Make sure the door seals tightly around the full perimeter when closed. Any leaks along the edges, bottom or top must be addressed. Weatherstripping, door bottoms and thresholds help seal gaps.

Window Plugs / Triple Panes

Like doors, better windows improve sound blocking drastically. Solid core windows perform exponentially better than single pane varieties – but aren’t always an option. Storm windows over existing windows help beef up your perimeter’s weak points. If upgrading full windows, triple pane with wide spacing and laminated glass works wonders.

DIY window plugs made from plywood, Plexiglass and insulation matching the window pane size can also temporarily fill noise leaks when needed. Cut materials to size and seal borders with acoustic caulk for on-demand soundproofing during noisy times. Remove plugs later for light and airflow.

Floor / Ceiling Treatment

Floors and ceilings require isolation similar to walls, as they conduct a lot of noise vertically through a structure. Implementing both insulation and decoupling techniques is key.

For floors, install a sub-floor of plywood over cushioned rubber pads to prevent contact with the concrete below. Then cover with mass loaded vinyl and thick carpet. Heavy rubber mats can also substitute carpet where appropriate.

On ceilings, use the same floating principles with resilient channel between drywall sheets. Green glue and MLV maintain isolation while adding damping. Greater mass blocks more noise.

In rooms with access above/below, adding material layers in those cavities provides additional acoustic separation on a budget. Otherwise flanking paths through vertical voids can compromise isolation.

Budget DIY Soundproofing

Building a professional studio can be expensive. But effective soundproofing is still achievable on limited budgets with some creativity and elbow grease. Try these tips for the cash-strapped podcaster:

Use Heavy Blankets

Moving blankets and quilts from home make great removable sound absorption panels. Hang them on walls with nails or hooks to isolate specific noise sources temporarily or block everything simultaneously. Layering 2-3 blankets multiplies effectiveness. Rotate around the room as needed.

Fill Wall/Floor Cavities

Cut rigid fiberglass insulation to fit inside wall stud cavities, or stuff loose insulation in floor/ceiling joist bays. Pack it tightly around wiring and plumbing to plug flanking paths. The insulation prevents noise transfer through the empty internal wall space. Use leftover scraps or purchase new batts.

DIY Acoustic Panels

Homemade sound absorption panels cost a fraction of commercial products. Staple acoustic insulation like Rockwool rigid fiberglass inside simple wood frames, wrap with fabric. Place panels strategically around the room to tame sound reflections and reverberation. Use thicker insulation for better low frequency absorption.

Seal All Holes

Caulk, spray foam, weather seal tape etc can all temporarily plug noise flanking paths through cracks, outlets, vents and gaps. Acoustic caulk remains flexible when dried. Use steel wool inside larger openings to really pack voids before sealing. Look for any hidden airflow pathways along baseboards too.

Replace Door Cores

If a whole door replacement isn’t possible, just swap the existing hollow core door slab with a solid wood or steel one. Heavy fire-rated doors work great for DIY soundproofing. Buy used or discount to save. Match the door size and bore hole spacing, transfer hardware over. Lower cost than a full custom door replacement.

Start with the easiest and cheapest techniques first for noticeable acoustic improvements. Then add more substantial projects like MLV barriers and resilient channels down the road as budget allows. Slow and steady upgrades over time can transform even an untreated room into a soundproof sanctuary.

Preventing Flanking Noise

Completely sealing a room 100% airtight is virtually impossible. Tiny overlooked gaps or structural voids can still allow noise intrusions after adding barriers – this is called flanking. Sound leaks around your carefully constructed defenses.

Common flanking paths: electrical outlets, HVAC vents, ceilings, wall stud cavities, baseboards, doors, and windows. Sound travels through any void it can. Stopping flanking routes requires diligence and lots of caulk.

Start by sealing edges with acoustic caulk and foam:

  • Perimeter of window and door frames
  • Inside wall outlets and switch boxes
  • Along baseboards and crown molding
  • Around vents, ducts, and plumbing pipes

Next, cut insulation or foam to tightly fit inside these voids as added blocking:

  • Electrical outlet bays
  • Wall cavities around wiring, plumbing etc
  • Floor and ceiling joist channels
  • Behind wall trim pieces

For doors and windows, weather stripping and door sweeps further seal potential leaks around the edges when closed. Prioritize problem spots first – take notes during your noise audit. Consistent fine tuning over time helps eliminate flanking paths as you discover them.

Addressing Room Acoustics

Soundproofing deals with blocking outside noise, while acoustic treatment focuses on managing sound inside your recording space. Both aspects are crucial for optimal studio conditions.

Hard, reflective surfaces cause excessive reverb, echo, and muddy resonances – problematic for recording clear audio. Materials like acoustic foam panels, carpets, and furniture absorb sound rather than reflecting it.

Strategically place 2-4 inch foam panels at reflection points on walls and ceilings to tame ambience – first reflection zones, corners, and anywhere focused sound builds up. Diffusion panels scatter and blend sound across a space evenly.

Find the right balance of absorption, diffusion, and openness for your room size and aesthetic. Over-treatment creates an uncomfortably “dead” vibe – leave some reflective liveliness. Consistent adjustment dials in great studio acoustics over time.

Noise Level Guidelines

Aim for these ambient background noise levels as maximum targets:

  • Professional Recording Studio – Noise Criterion (NC) 15 or lower
  • Home Music Studio – NC 20 or lower
  • Voiceover Booth – NC 20 or lower
  • Home Podcast Studio – NC 25 or lower
  • Bedroom – NC 30 or lower
  • Home Office – NC 35 or lower

The NC rating system objectively measures ambient noise in a space. The lower the number, the quieter the environment.

As a general rule, background noise should not exceed 30 dBA for professional grade audio recording. Use a sound level meter to accurately measure noise reduction during and after soundproofing. This helps identify remaining problem areas.

Consistently testing background levels ensures your insulation and isolation treatments are effectively blocking exterior noise from leaking in. Don’t stop until reaching suitable NC ratings for clear, professional podcasting audio.

Ongoing Improvements

Perfecting your home recording studio is an evolving process. Be patient and approach soundproofing in phases. As time and budget allows, incrementally upgrade materials and techniques.

Try recording some test audio tracks periodically to highlight remaining noise problems. Is sound still flanking somewhere? Do thresholds or outlets need more sealing? Any echoey resonance buildup?

Stay vigilant for changes in surrounding noise too. New upstairs neighbors or nearby construction can introduce new sound intrusions not caught originally. Be ready to adapt room safeguards accordingly.

Monitor background noise levels and room acoustics all around the space consistently. Add sound dampening gradually in strategic areas as needed to achieve lower NC ratings over time.


Podcasting is a fun and rewarding hobby, but it can also be challenging if you have to deal with noisy neighbors, traffic sounds, or echoing rooms. That’s why soundproofing your podcasting room is essential for producing high-quality audio and engaging your audience.

To soundproof your podcasting room, you don’t need to spend a lot of money or hire a professional. You can do it yourself with some simple and cheap materials that you can find online or at your local hardware store. The key is to choose a quiet location, cover the walls and windows with blankets or curtains, add acoustic panels and foam to absorb the sound waves, and seal the gaps and cracks with weatherstripping or caulk. By doing these four steps, you will be able to create a cozy and noise-free environment for your podcasting needs.

We hope this article has helped you learn how to soundproof your podcasting room easily and effectively. Now you can enjoy your podcasting sessions without worrying about unwanted noise or echo. Happy podcasting!

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